Iran Goes to the Poles - Friday, February 26th

Back at Peyman’s place we settled in to some evening cards. Adam, one of the Poles, had been complaining about having a cold coming on. Peyman said he had a local smokable remedy to hand that worked miracles. He would not, however, reveal the origins of this medicine until after it had been smoked.

Peyman diligently set up a water pipe and pulled out a bag that looked like dried herbs. We all suspected that this was just a ruse to get Adam really stoned but he assured us it wasn’t anything close to what we had assumed it was.

With some trepidation, Adam puffed on the mysterious herbs. “It taste quite good.” He mused. “Very smooth.”
After a few more hearty puffs he couldn’t wait any longer and demanded to know what exactly he had been filling his lungs with for the last five minutes. 
“It’s donkey shit….from a female donkey.” Said Peyman, with a wry smile.

Adam scoffed a little. His eyes widened and the sides of his lips curled downwards. The room was silent. “Hmm, this is first time I have smoked shit before.” He put the pipe down gracefully. 
“Any one else want to try?” 
No takers.

Peyman had been another gem of a host on the trip. Lanky, bushy haired, with a feint handlebar tache, he was wise beyond his 22 years. Aside from running a homestay he was also a full time student of industrial engineering and tourism.

Since he had started running it last August, he’d hosted  Italians, Spaniards,  Germans, Danes, Mongolians and even someone from Greenland. No Brits though. I was bashfully flying the flag once again.

Our first stop for the day was Persepolis, on of the ‘must see’ Iranian historical sites. Peyman was in training to qualify as a tour guide so was more than happy to take us around free of charge.

Built by Darius I in 530 BC it was essentially a way for the Persian king to show leaders from around the Indian Subcontinent and Middle East that the Achaemenid Empire were not to be trifled with.

Everything about it defies proportion. An enormous palace with roof supported by 20 metre high columns. Each wall and entrance was replete with exquisite reliefs. Many depicting the strength of the  king and the plethora of nations that came to swear fealty to him.

Sadly most of the place is in ruins thanks to Alexander of Macedonia. Funnily enough, they don’t consider him 'The Great’ over here. This means a little imagination is needed to get the full thrust of its grandeur.

Peyman informed us that they found evidence here that the Persian Empire had invented insurance, intelligence services and maternity leave.

I added them to the already enormous list of things that I’d been told were original Persian inventions. Human rights, agriculture, the postal service, medicinal alcohol, hospitals, anesthesia, guitars, pianos, shoes, sandals, boots, trousers, Polo, chess, poker, fridges, kebabs, wine, biscuits, rice, ice cream, yogurt, Valentines Day, air con, tulips, roses, ceramics, bricks, pearls and chariots were but a choice few.

I was beginning to wonder if there was a list of things that that Persians hadn’t invented.

Turning the lens to Iran’s future, today also happens to be the election day for Iran’s 290 seat Majlis (parliament). These  elections only  happen every four years and are as important now as those for the president. This will be the 5th since the revolution.

Every town and city I’d visited had been plastered with various  candidates and it turns out I’d even sat at a rally for one of them in Germeh.

Last time around widespread apathy by younger voters meant that turnout for reformist parties was painfully low. This time things might be different.

Iran’s deeply unpopular leader, Mahmoud Ahmadinejad, was at the helm when elections last took place. He was succeeded by the popular reformist Rouhani in 2013.  So there is a whiff of change in the air.

Many are still quite cynical. I asked Peyman why he wasn’t voting. “I don’t want to get involved in all that political bullshit.” It is a sentiment echoed by many young voters I’d met across Ian who are pro-reform. There simply isn’t enough faith in their democratic system for them.

Most of the people I had met are realistic and see reform as a gradual process that will happen in stages, over time. No more revolutions, thanks very much.

They recognised that the elections aren’t 100% free and fair but it’s still participation that many other countries can only dream of. In fact, turnout is higher than many developed nations. At the time of writing this it looks like it will be above 60%. They have had to extend polling due to higher than expected turnout

Still, the leaders of the reformist green parties have been under house arrest since 2009. This happened when they claimed the election was stolen by widespread rigging and intimidation.

It was certainly an interesting time to be in Iran. It all felt a little surreal.  Sitting on the carpeted floor with an Iranian family and a group of Poles.  Passing the Hukkah around and munching on dates. All to the background of rolling election coverage. We kept switching to BBC Persia to get more balanced punditry.

Before heading home to watch the election coverage at Peyman’s, we had all decided that we needed a dose of local Shiraz life. So we went to a trendy café and played Billiards over coffee and milkshakes. Once we’d had our fill, the café also had multiplayer Mortal Kombat on Xbox. How could we possibly refuse.

It was my last full day in Iran. The time in the café was beginning to wean me back onto life back home. The women in Mortal Kombat were practically naked and, shockingly, veil free.

On our way home I started to sneeze quite vigorously. “I’ve got something for that cold back at home.” Peyman grinned.